Trastevere (TrasTEVeh-ray) is named for its position 'over the Tiber'. Separated from the heart of central Rome by the river, the area retained its narrow lanes and working-class population when the rest of Rome began its nineteenth-century expansion. Tourists are charmed by the sites and sounds of the 'old world' feel, as they descend in numbers into the area, it's personality envelops them in a warmth and sense of serenity. Internet cafes are side-by-side with gloomy ancient premises of uncertain function, and you can choose from trendy bars and traditional chocolate shops. The heart of Trastevere is Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere and the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere. Heading up the lane to the right of the church, and choosing one of the right-hand turnings, you enter into the maze of narrow lanes at Trastevere's heart. The streets close to the river and south of Viale Trastevere are much quieter and there are several unpretentious restaurants where you can enjoy a peaceful meal at an outdoors table. There are lovely lanes to explore, and it's not too difficult to step off the main routes and escape the masses. As well as the occasional touch of authentic local color, there are plenty of businesses aimed at the large foreign population (strongly American and French). Trastevere is a short walk from Largo Argentina in the Centro Storico - alternatively you can take tram number 8, and descend at the first stop over the Tiber.